Arncliffe to Buckden

Sunday 26 April 2009

(Walking Distance: 7 miles)

Arncliffe

Littondale

Towards Pen-y-ghent

Buckden

The decision was made: Wharfedale after an early breakfast via a lift with number one son to begin a four day trip following a route inspired by Mark Reid's guide, “The Inn Way…to the Yorkshire Dales”.

So, here we are: midday, a full pack, sunny weather and a bed booked in Buckden, seven short, but rather steep, miles away. It’s my first day out since the Coast to Coast Walk back in September and my first with a full pack since my September 2007 walk along the Cumbria Way (the Packhorse having given sterling service shifting my bag along the C2C).

And thereby hung some concern... After the Cumbria Way I suffered a two month bout of sciatica, perhaps triggered by lugging a rucksack up and down some modest Lakeland Fells. Today, and for the past few days, I’d had niggling back pain. Would the walk lay me low for the next few weeks?

Littondale was lovely. The first swallows (or were they swifts?) of the season greeted me in Arncliffe. I bade farewell to my lift and gingerly lifted my not-too-heavy pack onto my all-too-tender shoulders.

After a couple of easy and pleasant miles to Litton, and a glass of pretend (alcohol free) lager the reality of the enterprise hit home. Birks Fell qualifies as a mountain by a smidgen: according to the book just topping 2000 foot by a few inches. It’s also very steep. It was, in truth, a bit of a sweaty struggle to get to the top. A winter of indolence exerted its painful toll. The Dutch couple who breezed effortlessly past me on the ascent had no such problems; they lacked the decency even to perspire.

The reward on a bright, clear spring afternoon amply repaid the pain. Grandly displayed was distant Pendle, nearer, Pen-y-ghent. The verdant trench of Wharfedale was flanked by the shapely heights of Simon’s Seat, Great Whernside and Little Whernside. Viewed from the ridge, however, Buckden Pike dominates.

It was good to be out. Time was plentiful. The curlews and lapwings were in song. The enjoyable amble off the hill down to Buckden was broken with a chat to a chap from Birmingham collecting Nuttalls: hills in England and Wales over 2,000 feet (610 m) with a relative height of at least 15 metres (49 ft).

I should have started the day nearer to Grassington. Despite my slow going I was in Buckden by 15:30hrs. I passed half an hour watching the world go by from a bench on the green before booking in at the fairly basic, but very comfortable and good value, B & B. The rooms are above a tearoom and, for good measure, a cuppa and bun are thrown in on arrival.

Buckden has a singular café offering good food in agreeable, unpretentious surroundings, with mildly eccentric and entertaining service. It’s infinitely preferable to the now sadly faded pub.

I’d had a good day. Other than a hotspot on my big toe no damage had been done. In fact for the first time in days the niggling backache had disappeared.

Accommodation:

West Winds Yorkshire Tearooms

Buckden

Skipton

BD23 5JA

Telephone: 01756 760883

£30.00