Buckden to Askrigg

Monday 27 April 2009

(Walking Distance: 12 miles)

Cragdale

Ruined Chapel, Stalling Busk

Semerwater

Track around Semerwater

Semerwater

Locals

Valley of the River Bain

Bainbridge

The day dawned wet with a dismal forecast for the rest of the day. The hotspot on my toe had developed into a fully fledged, but not too painful, blister. Waterproofs and Compeed are the order of the day. On the bright side my back was pain free.

Breakfast was a tasty, leisurely affair with no one in a hurry to begin the fight with the elements. A couple from Harrogate and a solo walker had shared the accommodation, both parties walking the Dales Way. The solo walker, a chap in his early twenties, was heading for Ribblehead, whilst the couple had a 20 mile hike ahead all the way to Dent.

I was gathered up and away shortly after nine.

Whilst I was familiar with the general area, today’s route was entirely along new ground. And very special ground, despite the weather, it proved to be. The route raises to the top of the Kidstones Pass, crosses Stake Moss to Cragdale, Raydale and Semerwater, before entering Wensleydale by way of the River Bain.

Despite the driving rain I made good progress along the Rake, the long pull up to the summit of Stake Moss and the magnificent high level yomp, along mainly green tracks and paths, to Stalling Busk. The big tops remained in cloud throughout.

At over a thousand foot elevation Stalling Busk’s daffodils were hardly out of bud. Its ruined abandoned chapel, a way out of the hamlet, provided a tranquil and comfortable lunch stop: the rain eased, then stopped; a new bench gave succour to aching limbs. It’s a very attractive spot to while away half an hour, munch apples and swig coffee: not good for people watching though.

The walk around the Semerwater was a little reminiscent of the Lakes, although Alfred Wainwright had apparently once described the tarn as a "muddy puddle". Bird life was prolific.

There were no walkers out today until a long crocodile was met wandering in expensive gear and noticeably mud free boots down the lane from Countersett to the shores of Semerwater.

In increasingly verdant surroundings I walked to Bainbridge, then along the top of Brough Scar, where another break was had, to Worton and Askrigg.

The Mark Reid book suggested a route passing Nappa Hall, but the gathering clouds dictated a more direct route across the fields to the village. I didn’t quite beat the rain, getting another soaking during the last quarter mile of the day.

The Manor House is a very comfortable and impressive Georgian town house in the centre of the village. The reception was welcoming, although I was conscious of dragging my muddied self into the otherwise pristine pile. I was the only guest.

There was little activity in any of Askrigg’s three pubs, but a reasonable meal was had before an early night.

Accommodation:

Manor House

Main Street

Askrigg

North Yorkshire

DL8 3HQ

Telephone: 01969 650986

£40.00