Askrigg to Reeth

Tuesday 28 April 2009

(Walking Distance: 12 miles)

Rain over Wensleydale

Another dire day forecast. At least it was dry for breakfast, and a very good one it was too. I’d like to have a weekend with Rita at the Manor House in the not too distant future. I’m told there’s a four post bed; I just hope the sciatica doesn’t return.

By the time I was packed up, got the shopping done and unfurled the Pacerpoles it was 9:45. The route over to Swaledale was via a minor road over Askrigg Common, then by a not-quite green lane (one with metalled, parallel tracks) above Oxnop Gill, down to Ivelet Bridge.

I struggled to the cattle grid on the open moor, only to look back into Wensleydale to see a lady jogger making short work of the climb. We chatted for a minute whilst I was donning waterproofs. The rain swept along the valley and hit us with a vengeance. It stayed with me for the rest of the day.

Although the first few miles were on roads, they were very quiet ones: only a couple of cars passed by on the Muker road and none at all on the lane to Satron.

When the mists swirled and cleared the surroundings were magnificent, often it was face down and head into the wind. Swaledale’s grand when you can see it. The rain didn’t ease when the moor was forsaken for the valley.

The Inn Way route headed high up along the valley side after the waterfall on Haverdale Beck, near Crackpot; I opted for a lower route shadowing the Swale. And so I plodded along not seeing another walker all day. After a couple of years of abstinence from red meat, give or take the occasional chop, I found myself fantasising over a plate of bangers and mash as I trudged along.

I was in Reeth by about three-thirty. I checked in at Hackney House at four.

The weather had tested my kit which, by and large, had stood the test. Underneath the waterproofs I was dry. My £120.00 Meindl boots faired less well: they leaked. On closer examination the right heel was parting company with the rest of the boot. The heel and stitching had failed last year on the Coast to Coast walk; this was their first outing since a factory repair. Brasher can anticipate a sale soon, Meindl never again.

Hackney House was grand with a large, comfortable, maybe slightly faded room.

Other than a vocal ladies walking group in the King’s Arms, Reeth was quiet. The pub fulfilled my fantasy by providing a posh but tasty version of bangers and mash.

Accommodation:

Hackney House

Bridge Terrace

Reeth

North Yorkshire

DL11 6TW

Telephone: 01748 884302